There are some places that become part of your soul.
For me, those places are the magnificent wine estates of South Africa’s Boland. Long lunches beneath ancient oak trees. Rows of vineyards stretching toward distant mountains. A perfectly chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc. The gentle pace of an afternoon where nobody seems in a hurry.
Living in Hungary has introduced me to beautiful cities, fascinating history, and wonderful food. But if I’m honest, I’d quietly accepted that those elegant vineyard experiences belonged to another chapter of my life. I never expected to find anything that stirred the same emotions just a short drive from my home in Szeged.
Then, during a day trip to Subotica in northern Serbia, someone suggested we make one last stop before heading home.
We hadn’t booked in advance. We simply arrived at Zvonko Bogdan Wine Estate, hoping we might at least enjoy a quick look around.
Instead, we were welcomed with genuine warmth. A cellar tour was arranged, glasses were poured, and before long we were sitting down to an exceptional wine tasting accompanied by a beautifully prepared platter. Time slowed, conversation flowed, and for a few wonderful hours, the world outside the vineyards simply disappeared.
The biggest surprise of all? I’m not usually a Pinot Grigio person. Yet their Pinot Grigio completely won me over. We left with bottles of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and, rather unexpectedly, a bottle of their gin as well.
Did You Know? The estate combines traditional winemaking with one of Serbia’s most elegant tasting venues. Its vineyards lie in the fertile Palić wine region, known for producing crisp white wines and increasingly respected sparkling wines.
One of the estate’s biggest attractions is how close it is to Szeged. The drive is approximately 55 km (34 miles) and usually takes 45 to 60 minutes, depending on traffic at the Hungary–Serbia border.
Because the journey is so short, you can comfortably visit for lunch and be home before dinner. Or, like me, you may decide that the estate deserves to be the destination rather than simply an add-on to a day in Subotica.
If you’re driving from Hungary, you’ll need:
Border waiting times vary enormously. Outside holiday periods we crossed quite quickly, but weekends, public holidays, and the summer season can mean much longer queues.
Travel and Home Tip: Aim to cross early in the morning if you’re planning a relaxed lunch and wine tasting. You’ll have more time to enjoy the estate without watching the clock.
The winery is generally open throughout the week, with extended hours on some days. As seasonal schedules and special events can affect opening times, it’s always worth checking before you set off.
Although the staff kindly accommodated us without a reservation, I recommend booking ahead if you’d like a guided cellar tour or wine tasting. Reservations are especially worthwhile on weekends and during the warmer months.
Parking is available free of charge directly at the winery. There’s ample space, and it’s only a short walk from the parking area to the entrance, making arrival easy even on busy days.
The estate offers several wine tasting experiences, ranging from introductory tastings to more comprehensive guided experiences. You can also add a beautifully presented cheese and charcuterie platter, making it easy to turn your visit into a leisurely lunch.
We found the experience to be excellent value for the quality of the wines, the professional service, and the generous hospitality.
As tasting packages and prices may change over time, I recommend checking the winery’s official website when planning your visit.
I’d recommend allowing three to four hours if you want to enjoy the experience without rushing.
That gives you plenty of time to:
If you’re like me, you may find yourself wishing you’d planned even longer. My next visit certainly won’t be squeezed into a busy sightseeing day—I’ll be coming back purely to slow down, enjoy lunch, and soak up the peaceful vineyard atmosphere.
Local Insight: If your route takes you through Subotica, consider stopping for coffee or a stroll after your wine estate visit rather than rushing straight back to Hungary. It turns a lovely afternoon into a wonderfully relaxed day out.
Don’t let the international border put you off. If you’ve never driven from Hungary into Serbia before, the process is straightforward with a little preparation.
Serbia is not part of the Schengen Area, so you’ll pass through passport control when leaving Hungary and again when entering Serbia.
Make sure your passport is valid for your trip, and check the latest entry requirements for your nationality before you travel.
Serbia uses the Serbian Dinar (RSD) rather than the euro.
The good news is that most restaurants, wineries, hotels, and larger shops accept major credit and debit cards. I still like to carry a small amount of cash for roadside cafés, market stalls, or smaller purchases.
Because Serbia is outside the European Union, your normal EU mobile plan may not include free roaming.
Before you travel, check your provider’s roaming charges. If you plan to spend more than a day or two in Serbia, consider purchasing an eSIM or local mobile data package.
Road conditions between Szeged and Subotica are generally good and the drive is an easy one.
Keep these essentials in mind:
Drive on the right.
Observe local speed limits.
Carry your driving licence and vehicle documents.
Ensure your vehicle insurance provides cover in Serbia.
And, of course…
One person should always be the designated driver.
Wine tasting is part of the experience, but the drive home is just as important. If you’re planning to sample the wines, let someone else take the wheel and save your favorite bottle for later.
Travel and Home Tip: Border queues can vary considerably, especially during summer weekends and public holidays. If you’re planning a leisurely lunch or afternoon wine tasting, leave Szeged early. You’ll arrive relaxed and have more time to enjoy the estate at an unhurried pace.
Without hesitation—yes.
Not because it’s the largest winery I’ve visited, nor because it offers the most extensive tasting menu. It’s worth visiting because of the way it makes you feel from the moment you arrive.
There are places where you simply tick off another attraction before moving on to the next. Zvonko Bogdan Wine Estate isn’t one of them. It’s the kind of place that encourages you to slow down, order another platter, pour another glass, and let the afternoon unfold at its own pace.
The warm hospitality, beautifully maintained estate, impressive cellar, and thoughtfully presented wine tasting all exceeded my expectations. Even without a reservation, we were made to feel genuinely welcome—something that left a lasting impression.
As someone who grew up loving South Africa’s renowned wine estates, I never imagined I’d find a place that would awaken those same memories just across the border from my home in Szeged. Yet that’s exactly what happened.
If you’re looking for lively nightlife or a packed sightseeing itinerary, this probably isn’t your destination.
But if you appreciate beautiful surroundings, exceptional service, excellent wines, and the simple pleasure of lingering over lunch with friends or family, I think you’ll leave feeling exactly as I did.
The first time I visited, the estate was an unexpected stop on our way home from Subotica.
The next time, it will be the destination.
Sometimes the most memorable places aren’t the ones you’ve traveled halfway around the world to see.
Sometimes they’re the ones waiting quietly, less than an hour from home.