Mount Etna: A Dance with the Fiery Lady of Sicily

UNESCO World Heritage Site

Mount Etna. Just the name alone had me buzzing with excitement! A UNESCO World Heritage Site and Europe’s tallest and most active volcano, Mount Etna has a reputation that precedes her. And there I was, almost pinching myself, as I stood on her slopes, surrounded by volcanic dust that was practically fresh off the press, so to speak.

My adventure began in Malta, where I was enjoying a sunny escape. Little did I know that a day trip from Malta to Sicily would take me to the doorstep of this legendary mountain. The day was a whirlwind—starting before the hotel’s breakfast had even kicked off and ending nearly at midnight. But oh, was it worth it!

As we drove towards Etna, with the cities of Messina and Catania as our backdrop, I was bursting with curiosity. Mount Etna, after all, is not just any volcano. In Greek and Roman mythology, it’s where Zeus trapped the fearsome Typhon, and where Hephaestus, the god of blacksmiths, set up his fiery forges. This mountain has some serious mythological street cred!

Etna has been grumbling and spewing since at least AD 1600, but she’s really turned up the heat in the last century. And, get this—the volcanic dust I was walking on had erupted just three days before my visit in August 2024. Talk about fresh!

The experience was surreal. At one of the restaurants in the visitor area, I watched as they swept up volcanic dust like it was snow. As an avid skier, it struck me how similar it felt—except this wasn’t snow. It was the ash from

Etna’s latest tantrum. Cars and tables were painted in shades of black, and the herbs flourished in a fine layer of ash. That’s when it hit me: this is what makes Etna so special. She’s not just a mountain; she’s a way of life.

Now, the locals have a lot to say about this “feisty” lady. They’re quick to point out that Etna is definitely female, given her frequent mood swings (read: eruptions). And yet, they love her fiercely. I was amazed at how they rebuild and carry on, no matter how many times she blows her top. There’s a kind of loyalty here that’s truly inspiring.

Oh, and the name “Etna” has a few possible meanings, from “I burn” to “furnace” to “mountain of fire,” depending on who you ask. All of which seem pretty fitting, don’t you think?

Legendary Tales and Local Lore

The Miracle of the Praying Nuns

The stories around Etna are as thick as her lava flows. One that stuck with me involves the Monastery of San Nicolò l’Arena. During the 1669 eruption, as the lava crept closer, the nuns inside prayed fervently for protection. Miraculously, the lava stopped just short of their monastery, sparing it entirely. The monks in a nearby monastery weren’t so lucky—apparently, their prayers didn’t pack quite the same punch!

The Tale of Nobody

As Ulysses, the famed hero of the Trojan War, journeyed home, he found himself at the foot of Mount Etna. It was here that he crossed paths with Polyphemus, the formidable Cyclops. The two ended up in Ulysses’ cave, but things took a dark turn when Polyphemus, feeling tricked and robbed, vowed to kill Ulysses and his men.

Determined to protect his identity, Ulysses played a clever game. When the Cyclops demanded to know his name, Ulysses simply replied, “Nobody.” Over and over, he insisted, “Nobody is my name.”

As night fell, Ulysses got Polyphemus drunk and blindfolded him. In a blind rage, the Cyclops stumbled out of the cave, bellowing, “Nobody has blinded me!” The irony of his words hit Polyphemus hard, fueling his fury even more. In his anger, he hurled massive volcanic rocks towards the sea, where they still rest today, defining the rugged coastline of Aci Trezza near Catania.

What to Expect on Your Etna Adventure

Now, let’s talk about what you can actually expect when you visit. You won’t be trekking to the summit, which was 3,369 meters high just before the August 2024 eruption. Instead, most tours take you up to 2,400 meters, where the adventure really begins. Here, you’ll find a cluster of craters to explore, along with restaurants and souvenir shops. Fun fact: there’s no natural water supply at this height, so everything is brought up from the towns below. Just another reminder of how resilient these locals are!

There is an option to go higher, up to 2,900 meters, but honestly, there’s not much more to see or do up there than at 2,400 meters. Save your money and enjoy the craters where you are—it’s where the real action is.

Travel Tip(s)

Bring comfy, closed-toe shoes with good grip. The craters are full of loose soil, and flip-flops just won’t cut it. Also, be prepared for some steep climbs, so your feet will thank you for those grippy soles.

And keep in mind, the weather can change in the blink of an eye. Clouds can roll in, and the temperature drops a few degrees as you ascend. I’d say it was about 3 to 4 degrees cooler at 2,400 meters than down in Nicolosi, so pack a light jacket just in case.

One more thing—a local I met, who grew up skiing on Etna’s slopes, told me that the snow has become so scarce that skiing is pretty much a thing of the past. It’s bittersweet to think that this once snowy playground has become more about volcanic dust than powdery snow.

This is the tour from Malta that took me to Mount Etna:

Travel Tip(s)

Comfortable walking shoes are key for travel; break them in before your trip for happy feet on the go.

In Closing

As I left Mount Etna, I couldn’t help but reflect on the people who live here. They’ve built a life on the edge of a volcano, in the shadow of a force of nature that could upend everything at any moment. And yet, they rebuild, they continue, they thrive. It’s a lesson in resilience, in living fully despite the uncertainties. Mount Etna isn’t just a destination—it’s a testament to the human spirit.

By, Arina JVR.
Occasional Contributor | Adventure & Fine Taste Enthusiast

Arina loves life’s simple joys—skiing fresh powder, snapping the perfect shot, and indulging in world flavors. As an occasional contributor, she shares stories from both famous spots and hidden gems. Whether it’s an alpine escape or a secret find, her passion for travel, photography, and adventure shines through.

Mount Etna: A Dance with the Fiery Lady of Sicily

Legendary Tales and Local Lore

The Miracle of the Praying Nuns

The Tale of Nobody

What to Expect on Your Etna Adventure

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