Kalwang-Style Potato Soup (The Recipe)

While driving from Lent in Slovenia to Hallstatt in Austria, we made a totally unplanned stop at a small roadside rest station (Raststation) in the tiny town of Kalwang in Styria — one of those spontaneous stops that turns into the loveliest surprise of the whole trip.

Inside the very pretty Gasthaus, beautifully decorated as if Heidi and Peter themselves might appear at any moment, we ordered a bowl of potato soup. It was one of those simple, unforgettable meals: no cream, no bread — just perfectly cooked potatoes, a hint of something special, and the comforting flavor of soup made with love. Pure Austrian warmth in a bowl, the kind of food that makes you slow down and savor the journey. Since returning home, I haven’t stopped thinking about it — I had to try and recreate it myself.

Ingredients (serves 4–6):

500 g potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, diced
1 small stalk celery, diced (optional)
60 g diced bacon or smoked ham (Speck)
1 tablespoon butter or lard
1 litre light beef or pork broth (homemade or cube)
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
Salt and pepper to taste
Fresh parsley for garnish

Although my recipe doesn’t taste 100% exactly like the soup I had that day, I think that’s simply because it lacks the beauty that surrounded me in Austria. Maybe one day the chef from that little place will call me out of the blue and say: “Guten Tag — would you like my recipe?” Until then, I’m saving for my next trip in the hope of one day going back…

Method:

In a soup pot, melt the butter and sauté the onion until golden.
Add the bacon, carrot, and celery. Cook a few minutes until lightly browned.
Add the potatoes, marjoram, salt, and pepper. Stir well.
Pour in the broth, bring to a boil, then simmer gently for 20–25 minutes until potatoes are tender.
Partly mash the soup with a potato masher so it thickens but still has texture. But keep most of the potatoes in tact, as this makes for the perfect deliciousness.
Adjust seasoning and sprinkle with parsley before serving.

Where is Kalwang?

Kalwang is a small town in Styria (Steiermark), Austria, located in the central-eastern part of the country. It sits along the A9 Pyhrn Autobahn, which is the main route connecting Graz in the south to Selzthal and further north toward Upper Austria.

It’s in a very scenic area of rolling hills and forests, not far from the Enns River, and it’s a convenient stop for travelers driving between Slovenia and Hallstatt — which explains why we likely stumbled upon that little roadside Gasthaus. What a blessing. – Elmari

The drive from Slovenia to Styria

The drive from Lent in Slovenia to Kalwang in Styria, Austria is a beautiful stretch through rolling landscapes and changing scenery. Leaving Lent, you pass through gentle vineyards and farmland, then climb into the forested hills of northern Slovenia, with glimpses of rivers and small villages tucked into valleys. Crossing into Austria, the landscape opens into the Styrian countryside, dotted with traditional farmhouses, meadows, and patchwork fields, all framed by wooded hills. Along the A9 Pyhrn Autobahn, the route is peaceful and scenic, offering small glimpses of Austria’s rural charm even from the highway.

Travelers often pass through on the A9 Pyhrn Autobahn without turning off to this town in the Styrian countryside. Next time, pause for a while — stop for lunch, enjoy a bowl of local potato soup (if it’s still on the menu), and take in the rolling hills, farmland, and peaceful charm that make Kalwang a hidden gem.

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